Design and decor that helps us connect to nature can take many forms. Fabric is one way to infuse nature into your home. It can be done by using natural materials such as linen, cotton, wool, or silk. It can also be done with motifs that represent elements and patterns in nature. Many traditional fabric patterns originated as expressions of nature that the artisan saw around them in their everyday lives. Ikat patterns are no exception.
What Is An Ikat Pattern Design?
Motifs of birds, flowers, and other animals, fauna, and even architectural elements found their way into ancient Ikat designs. Over time these motifs have been transformed by the culture that produced them and the cross-cultural influences. For example, the elephant is depicted as a common motif in the Ikat of Sumba, an island in Indonesia, even though there are no elephants on this island. It shows how new motifs were introduced in the art with the influence of trade with other cultures. 1 Flowers are seen in groups signifying the symbiotic need between nature and humans. Animals are shown in pairs symbolizing the needs for all to work together.
All of these interpretations show the need for humans to connect not only with nature but with each other. History. local tradition, and culture are told through the motifs.
Birds, other animals, flowers and fauna taken from the local land begin to morph into something different with elements, layer upon layer, in an abstract way too as symbolic meaning attaches itself over time as expressed in this quote:
Ikat can be compared with jazz improvisation, when new themes are woven into the background of well-known melodies, sometimes changing the basic outline of the work beyond recognition, filling it with other colors.
Alesouk Oriental Artisans Historical View of Ikat Creation
Because of this, many times, literal interpretation is not possible. Motifs were turned upside down, modified to represent new symbolic references such as fertility. Yet, it is still there. All of the influences melt together into something completely new and beautiful.
Central Asia, is thought to be at the heart of the development of Ikat design but this ancient art form most likely developed separately and simultaneously in many regions including India, and the Dutch East Indies, possibly due to maritime trade.
What Does The Word Ikat Mean? & How Is It Made?
The word Ikat comes from ikat comes from the Malay word mengikat’. This means to tie or to bind. This is a description of the process. The threads are tied and bound as a form of resist-dying in colors and once dyed then used to weave the various patterns. The first photo shows the binding technique along with several finished pieces. The next photos show the weaving process. Today the word Ikat is also used to refer to the textiles themselves as well as the process.
Historically Ikat fabrics were commonly used to adorn garments to be worn or ceremonial pieces used to mark spaces. 2 It could be used as a shroud to indicate the wealth of the person being buried.
Dominican designer Oscar de la Renta was taken with the Ikat designs of Uzbekistan and is credited with introducing Ikats into Western fashion. The Smithsonian Exhibit of 2018 titled To Dye For: Ikats from Central Asia showcased some beautiful examples of work that de la Renta designed for the french label Pierre Balmain . 5
They are colorful and carry on the tradition of cascading floral patterns mixed with geometric patterns. The scale of the patterns. the colors, and motifs were modified yet again creating a new abstract version of the art expressed in a way that expanded Ikat into every aspect of Fashion and Interior Design.
Is Ikat Still In Style?
Ikat, just like other traditional artisan fabrics, ebbs and flows in popularity but it never really goes away. There are handmade textiles in Ikat and digitally printed textiles in traditional Ikat patterns creating a wide range of products on the market. Today you can find Ikat patterns on everything from home accessories, pillows, tabletop dressing, upholstery, and bedding in addition to fashion garments.
Style has come to represent personal expression more than just blanket trends of the past. People are exposed to more unique artisan textiles than ever before and are much more saavy about global design and decorating, increasing the popularity of the art. Ikat finds itself at home in many different style categories. Because of the wide range of applications within the art it can take on many different looks. This makes it easy to incorporate in traditional, transitional, and even contemporary rooms and homes.
Here are just a few examples of how different Ikat can look depending upon the designer and application.
References:
- Kaluida Gallery and Concept Sumba Ikat Motifs
- The Metropolitan Museum of Art Ikat fabric
- Sambalpuri Ikat: Patterns & Motifs Visual and Material Arts Published on: 06 November 2017
- Alesouk Oriental Artisans
- The Smithsonian Exibit: To Dye For: Ikats from Central Asia