What Is Suzani Pattern and Design?
Beautiful Suzani patterns are an example of design and decor inspired by nature at its best. I have long admired and appreciated them. I was first introduced to Suzani Design while designing an outdoor pillow line for my small outdoor furnishings business several years ago. I loved the color and motif elements found in reproduction fabric prints long before I realized that it really originated as an embroidery technique. I wrote a brief article on the subject here but wanted to do a more in depth piece as my interest in Suzani has grown. The Persian term “Suzan” means needle and “Suzanikari” is the Persian word for needlework. Suzani embroidery textiles, originating from nomadic tribes was commonly used to wrap and protect more precious textiles and home belongings. Because of their nomadic nature these people needed to travel light. Heavy furnishings were not possible so textiles were very much prized personal possessions. As is the history of many arts and crafts, Suzani textiles had a very humble beginning and served a utilitarian purpose out of necessity. Today form and function are revered in the design world and craftwork has been elevated to the level of art. It was not always that way. I say it is a long time coming. Because these textiles were used daily by nomadic tribes, who moved often through rough terrain, it is rare to see many examples that predate the 18th Century.
The pattern is most often stitched in embroidery on a cotton base with silk, sometimes cotton thread. The embroidery chain stitch is done with a tambour, a hooked crochet like needle, as shown below.
The patterns are normally stitched on a cotton background with silk )sometimes cotton thread. Each region has their own signature style. Various combinations of chain stitching for the outlines and couching stitches to fill in the motifs are common. Just as is the case with Persian and other regional rug designs you may find that you are drawn to some more than others depending upon your own personal style.
The Origin of Suzani Designs
Uzbekistan is at the heart of Suzani production but nomadic tribes in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and other Central Asian countries all have a rich history of the development of the designs. The designs were influenced greatly by the countries that bordered each region as well as shifts of power over time. What has always remained constant though is the cultural significance passed on from generation to generation.
Meaning in the Motifs
The motifs all represented these nomadic people’s connection to each other and their life and culture as they moved throughout the harsh terrain. Dating back to ancient times their original purpose was meant to impart good luck and happiness for their family and loved ones depicting images of a perfect world, untouched by real world hardships. Images included the Garden of Eden, The Tree of Life, and other motifs of hope, joy, and fertility. Mothers lovingly stitched them as dowry gifts for their daughters to be presented on their wedding day. Beautiful as they were, there was a stronger purpose than adornment. The belief that there was magic imparted in the making of the Suzani to protect them from the evil eye and ward off evil in the home was a powerful and enduring part of the culture from generation to generation.
The motifs and styles used for Suzani design can vary greatly in different regions and there is some overlap of design as well . Uzbekistan, as the heart of many of these regions, is a good example of how the designs can be varied but also build their traditions with influence from each other. Below is an overview of some of the regional differences.
Samarkand
Early Samarkand designs can be identified by a central motif. There is open space between the motifs and secondary borders are common. The motifs are large, bold in style and color. There are many subregions close to Samarkand that produce exquisite patterns with their own special traditions as follows:
Astral and solar symbols predominate in Tashkent and in Samarkand Suzanis, and have their roots in the ancient way of life of the nomadic and settled cultures of this area. The artisans believed that using these astral patterns provided the heaven’s protection, and are connected with Zoroastrianism, the Sun cult and the ancient Fertility cult.
Suzani History: https://30meeting.com/pages/suzani-history
Shahrisabz
Located south of Samarakand, the designs of this region use a wide variety of color and include vegetable motifs as well as floral motifs.
Fergana
Fergana, located in eastern Usbekistan, is known for producing very highly stylized suzanis.
Nurata
The tradition in Nurata located NE of Sumarkand features very realistic floral motifs.
Taskent
Far to the west in the region of Taskent you will find Suzani patterns with central medallions that have serrated borders.
Urgut
Urgut Suzani’s are similar in style to Samarkand. Urgut is located about 40km SW of Samarkand but is a great place to find bargain suzani’s similar to those found in Samarkand markets.
Bukhara
Bukhara or Bokarha (English Pronunciation), just east of Samarkand, is known to produce some of the finest Suzani’s of all. Often seen with serrated leaf patterns, pomegranates motifs, and circular motif floral borders and medallions in a trellis pattern, they also made popular the use of gold thread in their works which has spread to other regions as well.
Surkhandariya
Surkhandiariya borders on Afganistan. Suzani’s from this region are known for original motifs meant to convey magical meaning. Bright colors are common and floral motifs abundant.
Kashkadariya
This region produces highly contrasted, brightly colored motifs in the traditional ancient ornamental style. Kashkadariya is the southernmost province in Uzbekistan.
Modern Interpretations
Suzani Style can be found today in original textile offerings from antique specialists such as 1st Dibs and various auction houses.
The tradition continues with embroidered styles available online from stores such as this one entitled UzbekAlive.
Print Suzani patterns are abundant today in everything from pillows, table linens, apparel fabric, rugs, and really anything that can be printed. They add a touch of vibrant pattern that can be just the pop of color and whimsical pattern needed to finish the decor of a room. Suzani’s are at home in the kitchen, living, bedroom, and especially outdoor spaces.
Here are a few of my favorites. First up, fabric for those who are DIY inclined. Make something fabulous!
Suzani Fabric Uzbek Bukhara Silk Suzani Fabric Silk EmbroideredNext, I wanted to show a few examples of bedspreads, table runners, and pillows made from Suzani designs.
Suzani Bedspread Hand Embroidered Suzani Tablecloth-WallHanging-Refined Bukhara Suzani Table Runner Suzani Pillow CollageIf you enjoyed this article and would like to see more please sign up to join our mailing list below. As a fabric designer and lover of all home decor and design I try to bring relevant information to help you be creative and join me as we bring nature into our homes and outdoor spaces. Would love to have you in our community!