Mountain, flower, star, and sky…
These are all common nature motifs found in traditional batik patterns.
Batik is an art form centuries old and like so many other traditional textiles it is full of cultural meaning drawn from motifs in our natural surroundings. It is yet another example of how connected we are to nature and how it can be used to “write” our stories in images as well as words. It is my belief that it is not only a tool for documenting our place in the world but also as a source of inspiration and renewal.
The Birth of Batik
It is not really known exactly where the art originated. Some scholars believe Batik began in India, as early as the 6th century in Java, and was later brought to Egypt and the rest of the world. “It (Batik) is known to have existed in China, Japan, India, Thailand, East Turkestan, Europe, and Africa, and it may have developed simultaneously in several of these areas.” 1
Batik Fabric Patterns: The Process
However it began, Java, an island in Indonesia, is credited with the most highly developed Batik art. The hand-made process used to create a traditional Batik starts with a wax resist technique. The artist draws the design on the cloth and then uses a canting tool which looks like a pen to apply the wax. Dots and lines are deposited on the cloth in wax.
Once dry color is added with dye. The color will not penetrate the wax and it creates a pattern where the wax “resists” the dye. Once dry the wax is scraped or boiled off of the fabric revealing the finished design. There are some variations using copper blocks or rollers but the idea is the same.
Today, many contemporary artists are experimenting with digital methods to create new and different Batik inspired prints too. As an example here is a link from Color On Cloth showing how the digital process works. This new art form looks to honor the hand made techniques with patterns that capture the imperfect lines and shapes. It is a difficult task but when done well reveals stunning results. It is best to see it as a new approach and art form building upon the traditions of Batik- not a substitute for the hand worked art.
The Meaning In The Motifs
The word “batik” is Javanese. It comes from the Javanese ambatik that consist of amba means “wide” or “large”, and tik or nitik means “dot” or “make a dot”. The word bathikan also means “drawing” or “writing” in Javanese. 4 It seems fitting as we see how each culture adapted story into their work.
Taking the art form and adding their own unique influence makes each of these variations different and yet the same. It is interesting to see how certain themes evolved and connect all cultures.
The motifs meaningful for each of these cultures find their way into the work.
While doing my research for this article I stumbled upon Journey to Batik by Sabine Bolk, an artist, specializing in Batik, who resides in the Netherlands. There is lots of great information on her site about the art of Batik worth checking out if you are interested in more.
This page mentioned a work blending fairytale and batik which describes the influence of western culture on the art form. This was a very common practice and many of these stories were depicted on batik fabrics of the era. I was intrigued by it and that led me to the Tropen Museum Amsterdam where the piece was featured with historical content.
Western influence can be seen in this piece from Indonesia depicting the story of Little Red Riding Hood. It shows Little Red Riding Hood and the wolf walking through the woods under a tree with butterflies and birds flying above. It is credited to the European influence over the Dutch East Indies. If you follow the link you can zoom in and see the detail in the motifs. 2
Batiks were imported to Africa with introduction from the Dutch as well. Various areas in Africa began to experiment with their own new methods of resist. Using mud and paste instead of wax these designs take on a look unique to their culture.
Lasem is another type of Batik that developed as a result of the cross cultural influences of Javanese culture and Chinese culture. Lasem is characterized by a distinctive red color, motifs of the Chinese Hong bird and dragon designs that are recognizable as Chinese.
These are just a few examples of how the art of Batik evolves as it is introduced to new artists in time.
Nature finds it’s way into the patterns in obvious and not so obvious ways. In his article Wearing the Cosmos: Symbolism in Batik Design, Robert Wessing goes into great depth to show how the symbolic batik patterns were used to show order in life. It was not only their use but also their strategic placement in the work that was symbolic. For example, he points out that some scholars think diamond patterns may have symbolized mountain tops in a range. They were strategically positioned to show separations in the work and provide order.
Order was also evident in the social heirarchy outside of the work itself. The udan liris pattern means “soft rain” and the rujak sente ( leaf salad). Both of these patterns shown within defined borders were reserved for members of the court. Commoners were often seen wearing cloth with and without animals, floral patterns, and the dots and short lines arranged in geometric patterns with a more bohemian, free flowing representation of nature.
Popular Types and Styles of Batik
Similar to hand knotted carpets, Batik types and styles are usually named for the region where they are made. You can probably guess by now that there are many many variations in Batik patterns. Here are some of the more popular types of Batik that contain motifs inspired by nature.
Kawung
Kawung originated in Indonesia and is considered one of the oldest forms of Batik. It takes its name from the local Kawung fruit, similar to the coconut.
Parang
Another Indonesian pattern that originated in central Java then spread into other areas of Indonesia. It takes its name from the rock or coral indigenous to the area. It is set on the diagonal and in the shape of an S. Within the shape are various motifs like those discussed above such as the soft rain and leaf patterns reserved only for royalty. Variations on this pattern include Barong, rusak, gendreh, and klithik.
Madura & Coastal Batik
Batik of the Madura region and northern coast incorporates influences from the local region but also shows touches of European and Chinese as a result of cross cultural trade of the area. Floral bouquets, persian peacocks, and Chinese phoenix representations are common. 4 Gentongan batik is characteristic if the vibrant colors and patterns seen from this area.
Sogan
Sogan batik dyes comes from the Soga tree. It is an Indonesian batik originating in Java. Brown is meant to signify closeness to nature and many of these Solo Sogan batiks reflect that color as well as orange brown, while Yogya Sogan batiks are darker brown, black, and white. 3
Balinese Batik
Balinese Batik is a more contemporary style with motifs of frangipani, a plumeria flower common in Bali and hibiscus as well as birds and fish. Combined images of lions, tigers, dragons, and eagles are part of the singa barong motif. Individual motifs of dragons, turtles, and deer are also common. In addition to flora, fauna, and animals you may see balinese dancers.
Pekalongan
Pekalongan batiks are known for their motifs of plant and animals which vary depending upon the sub type. Colorful color is characteristic of this batik originating in central Java. There is a mix of Chinese and local influence seen in these patterns that developed as the style traveled to other areas.
Truntum
Truntum batik originated in Indonesia and is considered one of the most popular. It usually has a star motif and is often combined with other styles. Used often for weddings, the star motif symbolizes legend tells the story of a wandering king who leaves his wife for a concubine. She begins to work with batik and wins back the rekindled affection of the king whose love blossoms like a truntum that resembles a star twinkling in the sky 5, 6
Conclusion
This really just touches on some of the many styles but I think you can see that just as languages evolve from influences as cultures connect with each other the same is true for this art form.
Each of these cultures incorporated motifs borrowed from their own surroundings combined with those of the traditional ancient art to create new and meaningful art.
Fabrics speak their own language through the art of motif. They have long provided a way for cultures to stay connected to their heritage, life passages, and celebrations.
This is another example of our focus at Sage Garden Style: Design and Decor Inspired by Nature.
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